Das historisches Rathaus Vohwinkel ist ein Hingucker. Es stammt aus dem Jahr 1898
Johannes Höhn, Das historisches Rathaus Vohwinkel ist ein Hingucker. Es stammt aus dem Jahr 1898

WuppertalFrom underdog to high-flyer

Everyone in this country knows her. And it is even a minor celebrity in the USA. CNN's travel magazine recently declared the Wuppertal suspension railway to be the "coolest" means of transport and voted the city one of the 20 places in the world that are definitely worth a visit. Alongside Japan, Jamaica and the Dead Sea.

So what is it about Wuppertal? What makes the city, also known as German Manchester, so special? A city where aspirin, woodchip wallpaper and the Thermomix were invented. Where the chemical giant Bayer was founded in 1863 and where the Wuppertal Institute is based, whose research combines climate, environmental and resource aspects with questions of economic and social change. The city from which a choreographer revolutionised the international dance world in the 1970s and where an internationally acclaimed sculptor found his second great love.

And what is the story behind this suspension railway, which is something like the city's lifeline? What does it feel like when you get on board and glide through the city? Is it a feeling of weightlessness? Something like lightness? Or is there even something sublime about it?

Die Schwebebahn fährt auf einer 13 Kilometer langen Strecke in Wuppertal. Sie steuert 20 Haltestellen an
Johannes Höhn, Die Schwebebahn fährt auf einer 13 Kilometer langen Strecke in Wuppertal. Sie steuert 20 Haltestellen an
Vom Dach des Gaskessels Wuppertal können Gäste Wuppertal in ganzer Pracht bewundern. Auch der Bahn Oberbarmen ist von hier zu erkennen
Tourismus NRW e.V., Vom Dach des Gaskessels Wuppertal können Gäste Wuppertal in ganzer Pracht bewundern. Auch der Bahn Oberbarmen ist von hier zu erkennen

Journey through the rich cultural history

A ride on the suspension railway is one thing above all: a journey through the rich cultural history of this still young city, which is something of an underdog among Germany's cultural metropolises and which is supported by the people who live here and who have always been courageous. They are tradition-conscious and at the same time visionary - and sometimes a little crazy. It is people like Marie Haus who shape Wuppertal and whose spirit of optimism resonates in every word. The co-partner of the Visiodrom in the old gas boiler says of herself and her male colleagues: "We are eight crazy people who love their city."

Marie HouseCo-partner of the Visiodrom Wuppertal

"We are eight crazy people who love their city. (...) Here you can make a difference, change things and be part of something!""

Seit 2019 beheimatet der Visiodrom im Gaskessel Wuppertal auf fünf Etagen Europas größte 360-Grad-Leinwand, eine separate Ausstellungsfläche und Gastronomie im Erdgeschoss sowie ein Fitnessstudio auf mehreren Zwischenetagen
Tourismus NRW e.V., M. Hulisz, Seit 2019 beheimatet der Visiodrom im Gaskessel Wuppertal auf fünf Etagen Europas größte 360-Grad-Leinwand, eine separate Ausstellungsfläche und Gastronomie im Erdgeschoss sowie ein Fitnessstudio auf mehreren Zwischenetagen

That's why they launched one of the first immersive exhibition projects in Germany in 2021, a visually stunning art adventure that bridges the gap between industrial history and state-of-the-art technology. The eight crazy people deliberately did not realise their vision in Cologne, Berlin or Hamburg. But in their home town of Wuppertal. Because: "You can make a difference in Wuppertal. Here you can make a difference, change things and be part of something," says Marie Haus, enthusing about the creative opportunities that are available in this seemingly provincial city.

And a lot has happened in this gas holder. The shows and associated exhibitions, for example on Claude Monet, have so far attracted hundreds of thousands of visitors, and on peak days around one and a half thousand guests are enthralled by the immersive 360-degree experience. Leonardo da Vinci is currently just as popular with the public. His works will be set in motion on the interior walls of the giant until 2025.

33 Hochleistungsprojektoren sorgen im Visiodrom für ein atemberaubendes Multimedia-Erlebnis
Visiodrom GmbH, 33 Hochleistungsprojektoren sorgen im Visiodrom für ein atemberaubendes Multimedia-Erlebnis
Roland MönigDirector Von der Heydt-Museum Wuppertal

"Civic engagement has a great tradition in Wuppertal"

Die blau-weiße Flagge des Von der Heydt-Museums hängt vorm Eingang in der Wuppertaler Fußgängerzone
Tourismus NRW e.V., Die blau-weiße Flagge des Von der Heydt-Museums hängt vorm Eingang in der Wuppertaler Fußgängerzone

If the annals are to be believed, this has always been the case in the 95-year history of the city at the gates of the Rhineland. The people in charge of the Von der Heydt Museum are well aware of this. "Civic engagement has a long tradition in Wuppertal," says the director of the renowned museum, Roland Mönig. "Without this commitment, the Von der Heydt Museum would never have been created and its collection would not have become one of the richest and most exciting in the whole of Germany."

This collection, which focuses on classical modernism and the 19th century, is currently being presented in a permanent exhibition for the first time in many years. In the form of a visual travel guide, it leads visitors through "times and spaces" in which they encounter great artists such as Paul Gauguin, Claude Monet and Ernst Ludwig Kirchner. They are joined by Paula Modersohn-Becker, Alberto Giacometti and Otto Dix, among others, as well as a whole series of important Wuppertal artists. The fact that all of their great works are in the museum's possession today is the result of "the early open-mindedness towards modern art shown by August von der Heydt and many donors", says deputy museum director Anna Storm, who adds that this open-mindedness "continues to this day".

Tourismus NRW e.V., In einem Ausstellungsraum treffen Besuchende des Von der Heydt-Museums auf Arbeiten von Paula Modersohn-Becker
Tourismus NRW e.V., In einem Ausstellungsraum treffen Besuchende des Von der Heydt-Museums auf Arbeiten von Paula Modersohn-Becker
Von der Heydt-Museum, Claude Monets Gemälde Blick über den Fluss Vetheuil und Blick auf das Meer ziehen im Von der Heydt-Museum die Aufmerksamkeit auf sich
Von der Heydt-Museum, Claude Monets Gemälde Blick über den Fluss Vetheuil und Blick auf das Meer ziehen im Von der Heydt-Museum die Aufmerksamkeit auf sich
Von der Heydt-Museum, An der Skulptur Eva mit dem Apfel von Astride Maillol können Gäste des Von der Heydt-Museum kaum vorbeigehen
Von der Heydt-Museum, An der Skulptur Eva mit dem Apfel von Astride Maillol können Gäste des Von der Heydt-Museum kaum vorbeigehen
Im Großen Saal der Historischen Stadthalle finden herausragende Konzerte statt
Tourismus NRW e.V., Im Großen Saal der Historischen Stadthalle finden herausragende Konzerte statt
Im Bahnhof der Schwebebahn warten die Züge auf ihren Einsatz
Johannes Höhn, Im Bahnhof der Schwebebahn warten die Züge auf ihren Einsatz

A mix of courage, commitment and love of home

Markus and Thomas Riedel are a good example of this special blend of courage, commitment and love of their homeland. Together, Thomas, founder of a leading company for radio link technology, which is used at major events such as the Olympic Games and Formula 1 races, and his brother Markus Riedel, who has been in the music business for a long time, opened the Open Ground techno club right next to the redesigned main railway station at the end of 2023. According to the national scene, this "sound miracle" is currently not only the hippest, but also one of the best clubs in the whole of Germany. So again, not Cologne, Berlin or Hamburg. But Wuppertal. The city with the famous suspension railway.

Meanwhile, its bright blue carriages continue to glide in an endless loop over the Wupper valley, crossing the traffic jam on the 46 motorway at Sonnborner Kreuz and floating past the magnificent villa districts that are reminiscent of the time when Wuppertal was one of the most important industrial regions in Germany. What has long been part of everyday life for the people of Wuppertal is still a minor sensation for tourists.

They then get off at the Ohligsmühle stop for the first time and walk the few steps past the Schwimmoper to the Historische Stadthalle, the construction of which dates back to the year 1900, again thanks to the commitment of the citizens of Wuppertal. The acoustics in the large concert hall with its high windows overlooking the park and historicist interior, which can accommodate 1,400 listeners, are considered to be among the best in the world. The Art Nouveau jewel with its spacious black marble foyer provides the backdrop for almost 400 events every year. From classical symphony concerts by the "in-house" orchestra to the new "Hautnah" series, in which the musicians play in the midst of the audience, to conferences, cabaret programmes and international dance tournaments. The large glass façade at the rear offers a view of the magnificent garden with its ancient trees, and regular guided tours provide information about the decoration of the staircases and halls. For example, about the history of the large-format porcelain faiences in the "Majolica Halls". They depict "The Gifts of the Earth" and "The Gifts of the Sea".

Patrick HahnGeneral Music Director Stadthalle Wuppertal

"You want to know what a spirit of optimism sounds like? Come to Wuppertal!"

Blick auf die Gartenhalle der Historischen Stadthalle
Tourismus NRW e.V., Blick auf die Gartenhalle der Historischen Stadthalle

In one of the smaller, also magnificently decorated halls, named after the composers Offenbach, Mendelssohn, Mahler and Hindemith, a performance for boys and girls of kindergarten age is taking place. The fairy tale of Cinderella is on the programme, and the young concert-goers sit on the floor and listen spellbound to the sounds of the flute and clarinet. But the musicians of the symphony orchestra also clearly enjoy their young audience's curiosity. They themselves like to refer to the Stadthalle as their "living room", but also regularly perform in the pretty opera house, a 1950s gem near the Adlerbrücke suspension railway station. Together with the Theater am Engelsgarten, these three theatres form something of a stage trio in Wuppertal with a programme that is as diverse as the city and its citizens. From quiet sounds to big shows, from exciting new works to acclaimed rediscoveries of long-forgotten works, everything is on offer here. Always at the centre: the anticipation of a shared experience and an open-minded approach to art. General Music Director Patrick Hahn also reports that he was welcomed to Wuppertal with "open arms, lots of goodwill, enthusiasm and warmth", says the almost thirty-year-old, who came to the Bergisches Land from Austria in the 2021/22 season. "Since then, I have experienced inspiring encounters and exhilarating musical moments here every day. Want to know what a spirit of optimism sounds like? Come to Wuppertal!"

Das Treppenhaus im Opernhaus Wuppertal weist symmetrische Züge auf
Tourismus NRW e.V., Das Treppenhaus im Opernhaus Wuppertal weist symmetrische Züge auf
Das Opernhaus Wuppertal ist die Hauptspielstätte der Wuppertaler Bühnen und des Tanztheaters Pina Bausch
Tourismus NRW e.V., Das Opernhaus Wuppertal ist die Hauptspielstätte der Wuppertaler Bühnen und des Tanztheaters Pina Bausch

From Wuppertal into the world

Tony Cragg and Pina Bausch came to stay in Wuppertal back in the 1970s. He, an internationally renowned sculptor from Great Britain. She, one of the most important choreographers of her time, who could have gone to Cologne, Berlin or Hamburg. But the Solingen-born dancer made a conscious decision in favour of Wuppertal. Here, more than a decade after the charismatic artist's death, her progressive spirit of dance lives on. On stage as well as at open-air happenings, in which amateur dance enthusiasts from the city always take part.

Boris CharmatzDirector of Tanztheater Wuppertal Pina Bausch

"I have had such wonderful conversations with people from the worlds of culture and politics, which have shown me how much energy there is here."

Wundertal ist eine Reihe von Events und Stücken, ein außergewöhnliches choreografisches Happening
Pina Bausch Zentrum, Foto: Uwe Stratmann, Wundertal ist eine Reihe von Events und Stücken, ein außergewöhnliches choreografisches Happening

The French dancer and choreographer Boris Charmatz took over the artistic direction and artistic director of the Tanztheater Wuppertal Pina Bausch in August 2022. It was an offer that the man who, in his own words, loves the avant-garde, could no longer and would not turn down. "I had such wonderful conversations with people from the worlds of culture and politics that showed me how much energy there is here," he recalls. And so, after much hesitation, he agreed to turn his back on his then adopted home of Brussels and decided in favour of Wuppertal. Knowing full well that it would of course be a challenge to keep Pina Bausch's legacy alive while at the same time combining it with his own art. "I can do that with a wonderful company." He now also greatly appreciates the audience and the "City in Motion". And finally, his success proves him right. Charmatz's production "Liberté Cathédrale", a collaboration with his French structure Terrain, was voted a production of the year 2023/24 by the magazine "tanz". As in 1978, rehearsals will take place in the legendary old cinema hall of the Lichtburg and in the opera house, one of several venues for the international company. The building from the 1950s, whose mirrored foyer dates back to the time of its construction, is filled with tense anticipation this morning. The revival of "Viktor", a piece from 1986, is about to begin - and every step and every movement is to resemble those from back then, when Pina Bausch herself was still directing. It is her legacy that has also attracted dancers such as Emily Castelli to the Bergisch region, who feels a little reminded of her home in Palermo. The young Italian dancer, who is still new to the ensemble and has already worked in Essen, feels so at home in Wuppertal "because it is more cosmopolitan".

Bettina Milz Head of the preliminary phase Pina Bausch Centre

"...a place of movement, in dance, art, music, migration, mobility, sustainability, in the green of the landscape and the flow of the Wupper."

Bettina Milz even speaks of a "rough diamond", a place of possibilities, inventions and freedom. She has been in Wuppertal since 2022 to build something new and great out of tradition. The Pina Bausch Centre. Directly on the suspension railway line, in the listed theatre and a new building, there will be an interdisciplinary venue for dance and performance in memory of the choreographer. The new artistic home for a world-class company, under the artistic direction of Boris Charmatz since 2022. However, it will also and above all be "a place for all Wuppertal residents in all their diversity", according to the coordinator for the development phase of the Pina Bausch Centre, which will also be home to the Pina Bausch Foundation and the archive under the direction of Salomon Bausch, the international production and the participatory project laboratory "Forum Wupperbogen". One of the world's most renowned architectural firms, Diller Scofidio + Renfro from New York, was awarded the contract to remodel and rebuild the theatre. This is another example of how "Wuppertal is exemplary for the transformation of our living and working environment", says Milz. "With all its opportunities and challenges." For the new Wuppertal resident, the entire city is "a place of movement, in dance, art, music, migration, mobility, sustainability, the green landscape and the flow of the Wupper".

Pina Bausch Zentrum, Foto: Bettina Milz, Das Pina Bausch Zentrum soll ein Anlaufpunkt für Fans von Tanz und choreografischen Einlagen werden
Pina Bausch Zentrum, Foto: Bettina Milz, Das Pina Bausch Zentrum soll ein Anlaufpunkt für Fans von Tanz und choreografischen Einlagen werden
Architekturbüro Diller Scofidio + Renfro, Auf der Skizze des Architekturbüros Diller Scofidio + Renfro können Betrachtende erahnen, wie das Veranstaltungszentrum bald aussehen soll
Architekturbüro Diller Scofidio + Renfro, Auf der Skizze des Architekturbüros Diller Scofidio + Renfro können Betrachtende erahnen, wie das Veranstaltungszentrum bald aussehen soll
Pina Bausch Zentrum, Foto: René Löffler, Proben für das Stück Ich kann's nicht lassen von Janne Gregor
Pina Bausch Zentrum, Foto: René Löffler, Proben für das Stück Ich kann's nicht lassen von Janne Gregor
Duo Medianeras aus Barcelona gestaltete die Fassade an der Hofaue 49 mit dem Werk Identity
Tourismus NRW e.V., Duo Medianeras aus Barcelona gestaltete die Fassade an der Hofaue 49 mit dem Werk Identity

The second great love

The British sculptor Tony Cragg faced a completely different challenge when he discovered an abandoned piece of woodland and villa between the city centres of Elberfeld and Barmen in the early 2000s. Having once come to Germany for love, he fell in love here a second time. "Into a magical place", which the multiple Documenta participant and Turner Prize winner never let go of. After he acquired the grounds and the somewhat run-down Villa Waldfrieden and opened the Waldfrieden Sculpture Park there, the public became more and more captivated by the area.

VG Bild-Kunst Bonn 2024, Foto: Michael Richter, Tony Cragg: Dancing Column
VG Bild-Kunst Bonn 2024, Foto: Michael Richter, Tony Cragg: Dancing Column
Süleyman Kayaalp, Gäste können einzelne Exponate durch die großen Glasscheiben der Ausstellungshalle im Skulpturenpark Waldfrieden erkennen
Süleyman Kayaalp, Gäste können einzelne Exponate durch die großen Glasscheiben der Ausstellungshalle im Skulpturenpark Waldfrieden erkennen
Henry Moore: Sitzende
Cragg Foundation, Foto: Michael Richter, Henry Moore: Sitzende

The reaction to the first exhibitions in the midst of the old trees "was very enthusiastic", recalls Cragg. "The unique combination of nature and art had an almost magical effect on people." 52 sculptures are now spread across the park grounds, which show a different side every season, always offering new views of nature and art and inviting visitors to take a break in what is probably the most beautiful beer garden in the city. Most of the works were created by Tony Cragg himself, but artists such as Markus Lüpertz, Henry Moore, Jaume Plensa, Wilhelm Mundt and Eva Hild also lend the park its character. Three glass halls, in which special exhibitions are regularly shown, have been added over the years.

Tony CraggBritish sculptor

"The unique combination of nature and art had an almost magical effect on people."

However, the path up to this "idyllic enclave in the middle of the city" can be a little steep. But the closer you get to the Waldfrieden sculpture park, the more a feeling of inner peace, perhaps even sublimity, gradually sets in. Until, at some point, dusk falls and you have to make your way back. Back to a city that is so different from others and whose people love it for it. For its openness and its possibilities, its backyards and its history. It's not Cologne, Berlin or Hamburg. It is Wuppertal. The city with the suspension railway.

Tony Cragg, VG Bild-Kunst Bonn 2024, Foto Michael Richter, Die Skulptur Caldera von Tony Cragg ist ein Hingucker im Skulpturenpark Waldfrieden
Tony Cragg, VG Bild-Kunst Bonn 2024, Foto Michael Richter, Die Skulptur Caldera von Tony Cragg ist ein Hingucker im Skulpturenpark Waldfrieden
Tony Cragg, VG Bild-Kunst Bonn 2017, Foto: Michael Richter, Distant Cousin ist eine Skulptur des Bildhauers Tony Cragg, die der Künstler aus Edelstahlblechen herstellte
Tony Cragg, VG Bild-Kunst Bonn 2017, Foto: Michael Richter, Distant Cousin ist eine Skulptur des Bildhauers Tony Cragg, die der Künstler aus Edelstahlblechen herstellte
Foto: Charles Duprat, Points of View ist der Titel einer Werkreihe von Skulpturen des Bildhauers Tony Cragg
Foto: Charles Duprat, Points of View ist der Titel einer Werkreihe von Skulpturen des Bildhauers Tony Cragg
Want more Wuppertal tips?

Other stations that are worth seeing

  • The Luisenviertel, a charming neighbourhood with half-timbered houses, pubs, cafés and restaurants
  • Wuppertal Botanical Gardens with the oldest observation tower in the city
  • Wuppertal Green Zoo - one of the most scenic zoos in the world and easy to reach by hovering
  • The new vibrates in many places along the Wupper, particularly noticeable in the stock exchange, Café Adá and Utopiastadt, for example
  • More and more facades are becoming paintings, the murals have long turned Wuppertal into an "urban art space"
  • What a history this city has! The Friedrich Engels residence, Museum of Industrial Culture, tells a few chapters of it
  • Botanischer Garten Wuppertal
    Tourismus NRW e.V., Botanischer Garten Wuppertal
    On the road in Wuppertal
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  • Schwebebahn Wuppertal Brücke
    Johannes Höhn, Schwebebahn Wuppertal Brücke
    Wuppertal in transition
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  • The Gaskessel Wuppertal can be seen from afar. A poster shows the current special exhibition
    Tourismus NRW e.V., M. Hulisz, The Gaskessel Wuppertal can be seen from afar. A poster shows the current special exhibition
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  • An entrance to the art world: the Von der Heydt Museum's collection includes art from the 16th century to the present day
    Von der Heydt-Museum, An entrance to the art world: the Von der Heydt Museum's collection includes art from the 16th century to the present day
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  • A freshly tapped beer
    Wuppertaler Brauhaus GmbH, A freshly tapped beer
    Wuppertaler Brauhaus
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  • One of the pavilions for temporary exhibitions by international artists
    Süleyman Kayaalp / Cragg Foundation, One of the pavilions for temporary exhibitions by international artists
    Sculpture Park Waldfrieden
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  • The Green Zoo Wuppertal
    The Green Zoo Wuppertal
    The Green Zoo Wuppertal
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  • Gustave Courbet, The cliffs near Étretat, around 1896
    Gustave Courbet, The cliffs near Étretat, around 1896
    Exhibition: Times and spaces
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  • Historic City Hall Wuppertal Column
    Historic City Hall Wuppertal Column
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