Tough climbs, friendly encounters and one or two surprises: on the hiking day in Wuppertal, Hannah and Silke took a completely different turn in many places than originally planned - and that has nothing to do with poor orientation, honestly! Rather, they spontaneously changed their route here and there and followed the advice of people familiar with the area. The result: a circular tour of around eight kilometres in total, which leads over sometimes sweat-inducing metres in altitude to districts and places where old and new are in beautiful tension.
First over the Wupper
Starting point: the main railway station. As soon as we get off the train, we are already standing on the Döppersberg, the gateway to the city, and see - stairs. Behind us rises the neo-classical building of today's main railway station and former Elberfeld station, in front of us is the newly designed pedestrian zone, which leads to two further landmarks after just a short distance: We cross the River Wupper and above our heads is the suspension railway. Shouldn't we perhaps just take a little....? No, we don't get on at the station, and we don't go for a stroll through the city, but stay in walking mode - until we reach our first destination, the Luisenviertel. On the way, we pass another tourist celebrity: the Von der Heydt Museum, which displays an art collection of top works by Monet and Picasso in the former town hall of Elberfeld, has to cope with the fact that we leave it to the right. For culture fans, however, it is perhaps the first stop on the tour.
Exclusive tips from locals
Admittedly, at 11 o'clock on a Tuesday morning, Luisenstraße, which forms the central axis of the creative quarter, is relaxed and quiet. But it immediately captivates us and we can easily imagine what goes on here in the evenings and at weekends: small shops to the right and left, cosy restaurants, cafés and bars behind the historic facades. Posters, graffiti and stickers advertise concerts, demos and a wealth of ideas. We can't get enough of the many photo motifs. A Wuppertal resident notices this too: "Do you need any tips for photo spots?" we hear from the side. Sure, let's have them. "The Botanical Garden is my favourite place, you can spend a nice afternoon there alone." And the tip even includes an exclusive invitation to his roof terrace, "with the best view over the city". Unfortunately, that won't work out this time, but we follow the other recommendations straight away. First, we eat a delicious curry that Bernhard has freshly prepared for us in his café "Bernard". A quick look in the wine shop next door. And when the owner provides us with more insider information about the different neighbourhoods, beautiful streets and a small vineyard just around the corner, we briefly consider staying for a whole week.
You have to walk over 103 steps
Just around the corner, we head up the Ölberg in a typical Wuppertal way, via a staircase. The Tippen-Tappen-Tönnchen is one of over 500 staircases that make Wuppertal the city with the most stairs in Germany - and leads us past the small vineyard that the friendly wine shop owner has created, up to the northern part of the city. Time seems to have stood still here: Between the beautiful and well-preserved old building facades, we feel transported back to the beginnings of the 20th century. Graffiti lettering, murals and pasted-up lampposts bring the present to the streets of Marienstrasse, Schreinerstrasse and Brunnenstrasse. "Germany's San Francisco" - that's how film director Tom Tykwer describes his home town. And with the ups and downs of Nordstadt, we can well understand that.
Next stop: coffee and culture
Just around the corner, we head up the Ölberg in a typical Wuppertal way, via a staircase. The Tippen-Tappen-Tönchen is one of over 500 staircases that make Wuppertal the city with the most stairs in Germany - and leads us past the small vineyard that the friendly wine shop owner has created, up to the northern part of the city. Time seems to have stood still here: Between the beautiful and well-preserved old building facades, we feel transported back to the beginnings of the 20th century. Graffiti lettering, murals and pasted-up lampposts bring the present to the streets of Marienstrasse, Schreinerstrasse and Brunnenstrasse. "Germany's San Francisco" - that's how film director Tom Tykwer describes his home town. And with the ups and downs of Nordstadt, we can well understand that.
Plant paradise around the Elisenturm
We walk along the route a little further than we have to in order to take a quick look at the Lego bridge by street artist Martin Heuwold - a real rainbow bridge. Then we set off on the next ascent, this time without stairs. We head up to Hardt, a large green area, including a botanical garden. We really get out of breath on this walk, but we simply take frequent breaks to catch our breath, turn round, look back and enjoy the far-reaching view over the city. At the top, we discover greenhouses with cacti and a book flea market as well as Café Elise. Time for coffee and apple pie. Next door, the Elisenturm and Orangerie attract our attention: the tower is rarely open, but is also a pretty eye-catcher from the outside and a great photo opportunity. The same applies to the orangery, which can be hired as a location. Small groups, couples or individuals sit on chairs and benches in cosy corners throughout the garden. Sometimes they enjoy the sun, the scent and the sounds of nature, sometimes they are engrossed in lively conversation.
"Float through Wuppertal once in a lifetime"
At the end of this approximately eight-kilometre city walk, we all agree: we won't do the last stretch on foot, we can't leave Wuppertal without a ride on the suspension railway. It's down the hill - of course - towards the Wupper. Fortunately, the "Kluse" station is not far away and is our next stopover. For the locals, the suspension railway is simply a means of transport, but for the rest of the world it is a very unique means of transport. And so we really enjoy the short journey - and not just because of our tired legs. We have to get off at the next station: We have arrived back at the main railway station, which marks the start and end point for our day of walking. So if you like, you can set off again, give chance a chance and experience your own personal moments of happiness.
Hiking hacks for Wuppertal
Our tips for your experience
We have gained some experience along the way - and are happy to share it:
- Be open ... To stop and look around. To strike up a conversation with people who are happy to share their local insider knowledge. Like Thomas, for example, the owner of the wine and sparkling wine shop in the Luisenviertel.
- Look at lampposts... because they are often decorated with small pieces of adhesive art that not only look colourful, but also send a message.
- Look back... to see the steps or stretches of path you have climbed from a different angle and enjoy the view of the city, the Wupper valley and the hills opposite.
