The most important landmarks here? We all know them. But on this tour, it's worth taking - or driving - new paths.Because history and modernity often meet here. Our (Rhine) cities are characterized by sustainable innovations and forward-looking projects. Let's go - to environmentally conscious urbanity, innovative design and so much more.
Düsseldorf is my home, and I am often walking there. In spite of being a city and the state capital, my hometown also has the charisma of an – admittedly very large – village, after all. One public transport line in particular stands out, however: the Wehrhahnlinie. Boarding the subway there is worthwhile, as is getting off here and there. This underground tour comes with six stations that deserve a closer look. In addition to being transport hubs, they double as places of art and culture. Getting off of the subway here will leave you within installations or works of art that you would never have expected to see on a journey through the depths of town. On Schadowstraße, for example, I come across the “Rhineglow” – a light installation by artist Heike Klussmann, where narrow shafts catch sunlight to create a glittering reflection reminiscent of the river Rhine. A sound installation chimes in a different place. What will the next station have in store? Let yourself be surprised.
First, however, we’re returning above ground. Whenever I get off the bus at Schadowstraße, I find myself invariably drawn to Köbogen II in spite of the multitude of shopping opportunities, restaurants, and cafés. Europe’s greenest façade is just that impressive with tens of thousands of hornbeams covering the building. It’s a proper green oasis at the city centre that not only makes the façade beautiful to look at and instagrammable, but also a symbol of sustainable urban development. Combined with the Dreischeibenhaus and the Düsseldorfer Schauspielhaus, it makes sure that fans of architecture will get their money’s worth here. By the way: The best pictures of Köbogen II can be taken from the Dreieckswiese, where you can also take a break from the busy shopping area or inspect the city centre from above. You might also start looking towards your next destination in the state capital, whether you are planning to go to the Königsallee, Kunstpalast, Carlsplatz, old town, or the Rhine promenade. Many of Düsseldorf’s highlights are within walking distance from here.
I’m off by train to the next city on the Rhine. Off to Cologne. Fortunately, I have many connections to choose from and the journey usually takes no more than half an hour.
The train has almost completely caught up its delay again, and I leave the main station deeply relaxed. I end up right outside of Cologne Cathedral. I have seen it many times before, but it never fails to impress me. My first destination is Museum Ludwig, just a few minutes’ walk away and known for its impressive collection of modern and contemporary art – including some works by Andy Warhol and the third-largest Picasso collection world-wide. Today, however, I have come for a special kind of exhibition. It is called “Hier und Jetzt” (Here and now) and is the museum’s first climate-neutral exhibition. Its electrical power, for example, comes from hydropower, it has reduced its use of print products, makes use of LED lighting, and has fewer loans and thus fewer transport routes, to ensure this. The exhibition is as minimalist as it is insightful, as it focuses on the link between art and science. By looking at works of art such as Gerhard Richter’s paintings of the Alps or a thousand-year-old cherry tree in Fukushima, we are inspired to reflect on time and space. It works quite well. The exhibition also includes some sketches of the museum roof garden to be built gradually. Work has already commenced, and I quickly make my way to the top floor, where the sun is shining and I’m even closer to the cathedral now. The first raised beds have already been installed and a snack garden is planned to be added here in future. I’ll surely be back.
A short walk takes me to the centre of the Belgian Quarter, one of my favourite districts in Cologne. I let my gaze wander over the pretty façades of the historical buildings that give the neighbourhood its very special feel. I keep discovering colourful works of art between the old walls – ranging from small graffiti tags to large murals. Street art fans have plenty to discover here. “Spread love, it’s the Cologne way” is the motto on a house wall here, for example. That’s not the only reason why it’s worth taking a slow stroll and paying attention in this neighbourhood, however. Small designer and vintage shops, galleries, boutiques, and concept stores can be found on every corner. Shopping the cosy way is just the way I like it best. To me, cosiness also includes a visit to my favourite coffee manufactory “Heilandt”. Their carrot cake...
Since I’m feeling indulgent right now, I fancy a little nightcap before heading off to the next city on the Rhine as well. What place would be better for this than a brewery? I like to be sociable. First and foremost, however, I love the atmosphere and flair that becomes evident as soon as I enter the Johann Schäfer brewery. High ceilings, solid wooden beams, old beer barrels, a hop-shaped golden lamp ... The former haulage company has modern design meet rustic charm, and even the entrance hall smells of freshly brewed beer already. If I were hungry, I’d probably have the ever-popular beer sausage. Or maybe something from the “Jemös” (vegetables) category, as the menu so beautifully puts it.
Following by brief but lovely beer break, I take the tram back to Cologne Central Station, where I hop straight onto the next train. This one is line 16. It takes me past old industrial plants, as well as offering some new perspectives of the river Rhine and then again allowing me to catch glimpses of idyllic allotment gardens. “Bonn main station” comes from the speakers again nine stops later. I love how close the cities along the Rhine are to each other.
Off into the underground and on to my first stop: the Museumsmeile. Getting out, I feel transported back to the 1970s, with neon-yellow wall tiles, brightly orange waiting seats, and grass-green handrails. I’m not in any hurry to get back above-ground and stop to take a few pictures before setting off for my actual destination. Just a moment ago, I was caught in the past. Now I’m moving on to the future. Or am I going to arrive in the present? The Museumsmeile in Bonn is the place to go for anyone interested in art and culture. Five renowned hotels are standing side by side here: The Bundeskunsthalle, the Forschungsmuseum König, the Haus der Geschichte, the Kunstmuseum Bonn, and the Deutsches Museum Bonn. Today, I am picking the latter. The museum has now repositioned itself as an AI centre, with screens flickering everywhere and a driving simulator in a futuristic-looking car waiting for me in the entrance area. First, however, I drop by the AI lab to learn how deep fakes are created. A few minutes later, I’m standing in a phone booth to make a call. Who is there? An AI, of course. How many hours did I actually spend there in the end? I don’t even remember.
That’s enough learning for today. I want to get in some fresh air before heading back to Düsseldorf. I take the underground towards the university and get off at another tiled station – this time in squeaky green. A lusher green is waiting for me above ground. It’s the green of grass. People are having picnics, are reading and playing cards on the lawn in the courtyard garden, with the best view of the university building, in this case a castle. It used to be the electoral palace. Isn’t that crazy? I stroll along the avenue to the old customs office, which affords me the best view of the river Rhine and even lets me see as far as the Siebengebirge mountains. What am I going to do on my next visit to Bonn? I won’t just look out over the river Rhine and into the distance from the old customs building, admiring the Siebengebirge mountains, but actually board a ship and go there. A KD ship is already rocking comfortably in the water at the quay here – ready to carry its passengers over to charming Königswinter, where Schloss Drachenburg is perched on legendary Drachenfels mountain.
That’s another beautiful truth about our cities along the Rhine. If you have found your sea legs, you will be able to escape the hectic hustle and bustle of trains and trams, keep your nose into the wind, and watch the landscapes pass by from an entirely different perspective. Your regional train from Düsseldorf to Cologne was cancelled? Well, just go by boat then!
Are you once again finding yourself waiting for the train? No worries - there is plenty to discover in NRW.
Overnight advice:
Your route:
75.9 km; 1:41 h travelling time
Total energy | Energy per 100 km by train: 0.93 kWh | 1.23 kWh
By comparison:
Total energy | Energy per 100 km by car: 14.36 kWh | 18.82 kWh
