If you travel through the Siegerland on the Rothaarbahn, you will probably look out of the window more often than on other routes. This is because travelers get a taste of one of the many natural adventures that await them in the Rothaargebirge.
“We have power outlets here too, don’t we?” the train attendant is telling me when she spots me with a laptop on my lap. That’s handy, I figure. I’m sure I’ll be needing them soon enough. After all, I’ll be travelling for nearly an hour and a half. “This is an on-demand stop – please press the stop request button to get off.” The announcement makes me grin and takes me right back to my days using the school bus in the village. That was a long time ago. The journey serves as a throwback to my rural childhood and youth otherwise as well.
It’s very idyllic. The Rothaarbahn railway runs through wooded areas, often following the river. Every now and then, it passes through some picturesque little half-timbered villages and, having grown up in one like them, I can’t help but wonder what life here is like. The weather is not at its best today, but it has a mystical feel that I enjoy. Mist is hanging low on the hills of the Rothaargebirge mountains. Of course, this place has hiking paradises galore.
The station might as well be called “middle-of-nowhere” station, with a building that seems sprung right from a fairytale movie. I’m standing in front of a narrow wooden house with a pointed roof and find to my surprise that an event barn with a beer garden is right adjacent to it – the Zollposten (customs post). It’s too early for beer, though, and I’m destined for greater things anyway. My path takes me up to Ginsburg castle, which means a 20-minutes’ walk through dense forest, along a small stream, and across some picturesque clearings. Eventually, I can spot the yellow castle ruins ahead. A small donation allows me to climb the castle tower, where I spend a short while enjoying the panoramic view of the Rothaargebirge mountains. Next, I treat myself to another short break at the Ginsburgschänke inn, situated right next to the castle ruins, a cosy, rustic stone house with a beautiful outdoor area. I do not linger for too long, however, since I am already looking forward to continuing my journey along the picturesque scenery. In our day and age, the journey is what matters most, after all. With that in mind, I am quickly back on the Rothaarbahn railway again, with forest, water, swathes of mist, and my circling thoughts. I have long stopped caring about my laptop’s low battery.
Bad Berleburg is the end of the line, rather than an on-demand stop
Well then – here we go. I head from the station to the wooded area on a route that quickly starts climbing steeply.
A nice-looking man is greeting me: “Done with work already?” he asks me. “I’m off today,” I give him a grin. “Do they actually do that?” – “I think you may be mistaking me for someone else. I’m not from around here.” – “Ah. I was wondering, eh? Have a nice day!”
I am wondering even more, surely. I keep on climbing uphill, passing a great number of wooden benches that are each marked with small plaques. “Franks Bank – I did it my way”, one backrest says, for example. Hikers don’t have to make do without a break even in bad weather since most of the benches come with small squeegees and rags to dry them off after a rain. Hilarious. A few hundred metres later, I can spot my destination through the treetops. Funny, that, I think to myself as I speed up my steps
At the car park for hikers, an elderly gentleman is shrugging into his small backpack and giving me a look. “Let’s go and get some exercise in, shall we?” he says. “That’s what I thought,” I return with a grin.
I can see it clearly now: There’s a big golden egg in the middle of the forest. The sculpture called “What came first” is a proper eye-catcher and worth a visit outside of the Easter period as well. It is one of eleven artistic installations on the 23-kilometre-long WaldSkulpturenWeg trail that connects Schmallenberg in the Sauerland to Bad Berleburg. Upon arrival, I sit on a bench to look down into the valley. The way up took me just under 40 minutes. I am out of breath, but I have no regrets. I can see the elderly gentleman walking in the distance, hands clasped behind his back, of course. The Siegerland mountains are shrouded in mist behind him. How idyllic!
Back down in Bad Berleburg, I am feeling like taking a break. I find a cute little coffee house just a few hundred metres from the station. Eggs seem to be a hot topic in Bad Berleburg. Papier-mâché eggshells are dangling from the ceiling. Maybe that’s merely coincidence, though. I order a chocolate muffin and a cappuccino while looking around some more. The counter looks like a bookcase, and fresh tulips are everywhere. It’s very cosy.
I then set out back to Düsseldorf. I’m grateful for the power outlets on the Rothaarbahn train now. The oncoming train is 25 minutes late and I can’t catch my connecting train in Siegen. That means that I end up going via Kreuztal to Hagen, to arrive in Düsseldorf an hour later than I had planned. Wi-Fi on board of the RB91 is great though. Thank you, Rhein-Ruhr-Netz.
Are you once again finding yourself waiting for the train? No worries - there is plenty to discover in NRW.
Siegen affords you an opportunity to move around a little, as the Wellersbergpark serves as a small green oasis very close to the railway station.
In Bad Berleburg, you can find the Grobbel’s coffee bar by following the aroma of fresh coffee, as it is located just a few hundred metres from the station. It serves cakes and cappuccino in a pleasant atmosphere.
Overnight advice:
If you spontaneously decide to add another day, you can enjoy a heavenly night at the Hotel Alte Schule in Bad Berleburg, the winner of the “Mein himmlisches Hotel” VOX TV programme.
Your route:
58.9 km; 1:18 h travelling time
Total energy | Energy per 100 km by train: 0.77 kWh | 1.3 kWh
By comparison:
Total energy | Energy per 100 km by car: 5.64 kWh | 12.79 kWh
