And action!

Maritime flair in the Ruhr city? Certainly. After all, Duisburg has Europe’s largest inland harbour. You cannot visit the city and not drop by it. Accordingly, I take a detour from the main railway station straight to the water of Duisburg’s inner harbour. With the museums, restaurants, and bars here, I can about imagine what goes on in this place at the weekends or after work. Every place has a view of the harbour basin, too. My mind starts wandering towards the sewers. Some sewage pipe here must have been used as the place where a body is discovered in an episode of Tatort. I quickly discard that particular thought. I’ve heard that a harbour tour is worthwhile here in Duisburg. With a sundowner? Certainly!

A memorial for a police detective? That’s right. Let us continue to the nearby harbour district of Ruhrort on the tram line 901 from the main station. Less than ten minutes later, I’m walking straight towards “Horst Schimanski-Gasse”. Horst Schimanski, the brash, swearing Tatort detective from the 1980s, was born to the world of television right here: in Ruhrort. They couldn’t have chosen a nicer little alleyway to honour “Schimmi”, either, I would think. Small and steep, it enchantingly leads right up to the beautifully designed harbour promenade. Since Schimanski moved through Duisburg innumerable times during his investigative career, a bronze bust of him was even set up in the alley. It makes me laugh. The people of Duisburg probably place great importance on authenticity, as someone has given Schimmi an important “accessory” and put a cigarette in his mouth to honour his style. 

If you haven’t gotten enough of Schimmi yet, all you need to do is walk to the Ankerbar another few streets away. It was the Tatort detective’s favourite pub. While the bar served as a backdrop in some episodes, locals and Tatort fans will meet here today – even after it was briefly closed and then reopened. The place offers pizza, pasta, beer, or cocktails, and of course Schimmi is looking on from its walls.

Wuppertal was only a short journey away. The train station there isn’t bad at all. How many of them can one even say that about? The city’s landmark stops right outside of it: the suspension railway. I’m not quite ready to board it yet, though, since my first destination is only a 10-minute walk from the main station. The historical town hall truly is a gem of a building. It is only logical that location scouts discovered this place as well. This is where films such as “Romy Schneider” and “Odyssey of Heroes” were shot.

Going to the public pool without any swimming gear? It’s not a problem at all – after all, I’m on a film tour here. A short walk takes me within sight of the Schwimmoper, a municipal public pool made of glass and steel in a futuristic look. Its curved dome is reminiscent of an opening shell. The glass roof creates a marvellous play of light and an extraordinary, artistic backdrop. It seems to also be ideal for dance scenes, which is why the swimming opera house also was the filming location for the Wim Wenders documentary “Pina” about Pina Bausch, famous choreographer and the city’s creative spirit, who wrote dance history of global renown with the Tanztheater Wuppertal. The cast of the German series “Babylon Berlin” filmed here as well. It’s a special swimming pool steeped in history, as is evident as soon as I enter the entrance hall. An exhibition vividly shows how the baths were once used for show events or competitions. And next time I’m here? I’ll go swim a lap.

“How cute is this place?” I ask myself as I stroll through the Luisenviertel. The student quarter is the historical centre of Wuppertal. The neighbourhood is close to the historical town hall, and I certainly consider it fit to be filmed. Small alleyways, many old buildings, boutiques, cafés, local retailers. Every now and then I discover one of the typical mountain slate houses. It’s a place where going for a walk will pay off for certain. If you don’t, you risk missing an opportunity of discovering the lovingly and creatively designed backyards or a trendy side street pub. The Luisenviertel certainly has a very special charisma that is reminiscent of particular places in Berlin. It’s not just students who enjoy the midday sun here, though. The people are just as diverse as the neighbourhood itself is.

Of course, I won’t pass up on taking the suspension railway today either. It always is a special feeling to float above the streets like this while the city passes by below. The Wupper, cars, and pedestrians are passing by underneath me. Even up here, I feel very close to what’s happening in the city. I get off the “city’s landmark” and find myself standing in front of Wuppertal’s next figurehead: The future Pina Bausch Centre, currently still “under construction”. Even now, one can feel that something great is being built here. The legacy of legendary Pina Bausch is kept alive and, even though it isn’t finished yet, exciting events such as workshops and festivals are taking place regularly.

The cycling city is also a city of crime stories. From the main station, I make my way to the historical old town, where many dark secrets are waiting between medieval half-timbered houses and impressive churches. Quite a few criminal cases have come to light here. Thanks to “Wilsberg” and “Tatort”, Münster’s old town in particular has turned into a lively part of the crime world. My first stop leaves me at the Prinzipalmarkt and Lambertikirche church, a place that serves as Münster’s cosy parlour and is particularly pretty to look at with its picturesque gabled houses, cobbled streets, rich history, and many shops, boutiques, and cafés that invite visitors for a walk. I was never aware that there was a “Zeit für Brot” in Münster. I couldn’t be any happier as I walk straight towards the Lambertikirche with my personal dream of yeast, butter, cardamom, and sugar (with a pinch of salt), also known as a “Kardamomknopf”. The church’s towers are rising far into the sky, forming a great, impressive landmark.  

It’s not far from here to St. Paul’s cathedral, and as I make my way towards that majestic building, I remember the “Tatort” duo Thiel and Boerne holding a press conference on the cathedral square in one of the episodes. A weekly market takes place here on Wednesdays and Saturdays, turning the cathedral square particularly colourful with fresh flowers, fruit, vegetables, home-made delicacies, and handcrafted goods. The weekends in particular see the square at the centre of the old town turn into a meeting place. Today may not be a market day, but there’s still a lot going on. Relax in the best weather either on the ground in front of the cathedral or on the benches in the immediate vicinity.

Crossing a small bridge along romantic Spiegelturm alley, I move on to my next destination with the Münstersche Aa rippling below me. I pass by the underwater church, another pretty photo motif right in front of my actual destination: The antique bookshop Wilsberg, where visitors will find plenty of old books, records, and other treasures that tell stories from times gone by. First and foremost, they can immerse themselves in the world of charming detective Wilsberg here. Just like I am about to do. Time seems to stand still on this film set that smells of old books and dusty paper. Taking pictures isn’t allowed here, but browsing the goods is absolutely desired. 

As I make my leisurely way back to the station, a number of film scenes come to mind. I would say that I know most NRW cities quite well. Its celebrity side is new to me, though. I like it. I must still be in film mode as I make my way home through rural Münsterland on regional train 89 since “Haus Kummerveldt” is popping into my head. That was the region’s TV show that was even honoured with a Grimme Award once. The story is based, among other things, on the life of famous poet Annette von Droste-Hülshoff. Beyond the moated castle Burg Hülshoff, there are some other film locations in the region as well, including Haus Rüschhaus or the Bocholt textile factory. I truly have some film-filled days behind me...