Marion Strehlow never planned her life as a fashion designer. "It just happened that way," says the 46-year-old. Then she tilts her head a little, thinks for a moment and finally adds: "But how it really happened, I don't really remember." One thing led to another: A-levels, training as a seamstress, fashion school - and then the step towards self-employment was taken. The self-confident woman founded her own label strehlow 18 years ago and has been developing her collections ever since. But without ever being finished. "Because a collection is always a snapshot of where I am at the moment."
Tourismus NRW e.V., Ralph Sondermann, Kleidungsstücke an Kleiderstange, Düsseldorf Tourismus NRW e.V., Ralph Sondermann, Marion Strehlow bei Näharbeiten, Düsseldorf Tourismus NRW e.V., Ralph Sondermann, Näharbeiten an Produktmarke Strehlow, Düsseldorf Tourismus NRW e.V., Ralph Sondermann, Marion Strehlow bei Näharbeiten, Düsseldorf
"That would be a huge opportunity for us" (and) "that more happens in this direction and that young talent is better supported"
It is still cold and grey outside when DeinNRW visits Marion Strehlow for the first time in her studio in the Oberbilk district of Düsseldorf, an unassuming ground floor flat in one of the many spacious old buildings here. The first thing we do is warm up with hot tea. Dozens of varieties with names such as "Be Happy", "Good Morning", "Keep Calm", lime & ginger are lined up on the narrow shelf above the small kitchenette. Or would you prefer coffee? Not from the machine. Marion brews it fresh. So we get to choose before we take a seat between the four large clothes racks with their unusual trousers, blouses and coats in her cosy eat-in kitchen. At first glance, everything here seems a little improvised. No. Wrong. Uncomplicated is more like it. And above all warm. Just like Marion Strehlow herself.
At the moment, the woman dressed all in black is a little nervous. After all, it is currently being decided whether "The NRW Design Issue" (TNRWDI) will be continued next year and continue to be funded by the state. "That would be a huge opportunity for us," says Marion Strehlow, and you can see in her alert eyes how passionately she fights for her industry. At the end of January, TNRWDI offered six fashion designers from North Rhine-Westphalia the opportunity to present their collections to a broad public. The Düsseldorf-based designer was one of them. And she would like to see "more happening in this direction and better support for young talent". After all, it works really well in the art scene, while "hardly any of the fashion school graduates stay in the state".
Winner of the #urbanana award
Strehlow, who more or less had to set up her own business after graduating from fashion school because she had already received a sponsorship award from the Igedo fashion fair in Düsseldorf and simply needed a trade licence, has now become active herself. In summer, the first "Behind the Scene" city tour was organised to give visitors interested in fashion the "intimate opportunity to gain an insight into our industry", as the designer explains. It is also intended to give tourists the opportunity to talk to locals. Because that was exactly what Marion was missing when she was on holiday in Los Angeles some time ago. "As a lonely tourist," she says with a smile. Instead of just leafing through travel guides and "working through" the sights, she would have preferred to visit local designers or simply meet interesting people. What makes this city tick? What does it look like behind the glittering facades? Music, trends, trendy neighbourhoods - Marion would have liked to experience more of the lifestyle in this vibrant metropolis.
Back home in Düsseldorf, she finally developed the idea for "Behind the Scene" together with her partner Michael - and struck a chord with the times. Even before the first tour of Düsseldorf's fashion studios, which was fully booked months in advance, had begun, the idea generator had already been honoured with the first #urbanana award for the exemplary combination of the creative and tourism industries.
During our first visit, she literally gushes. At the time, she was thinking aloud about what the tour could look like. Which of her colleagues who have recently settled in the city with their small, fine fashion labels could be there and open their studios to the guests? "There's a really great hat designer in Düsseldorf. That would also be a great address," she says spontaneously. The two know each other well and like each other. Because the cohesion in the scene ("unfortunately there are only very few designers with their own label in Düsseldorf") is great, the interaction with each other is characterised by cordiality instead of competition.
"Behind the Scene" is therefore not only an experiment for everyone involved, but above all a huge opportunity.
Marion already has an unusual venue in mind for the evening dinner. "But perhaps we could also include an exhibition in the programme." And so it goes on and on. The plan matures - until it is actually put into practice for the first time just a few months later. With success. Because from the very beginning, the most important thing for the bustling Düsseldorf native was that people would get to talk to each other, that they would get to know her craft and that she could pass on a little of her own enthusiasm for her profession to others. And by the way, anyone who spontaneously falls in love with a designer piece on the tour can of course buy it straight away and take it home with them. That's exactly how it happened.
"I only started sewing so that I could make my own things."
As I said, this life path was never planned. Nor did Marion Strehlow herself actually want to do an apprenticeship as a tailor after leaving school, but her boyfriend at the time did. "I only started sewing so that I could make my own clothes," recalls the Mönchengladbach native with a twinkle in her eye.
"Because my parents didn't buy me everything I wanted ..."
However, earning a living as a seamstress after her apprenticeship was out of the question for the young woman at the time. "Absolutely not. What did I want? I wanted to make patterns myself." So she applied to fashion school and spent three years there learning not only how to create patterns, but also how to draw, costume and material science. As soon as she says this, the lively woman immediately jumps up to present her latest technical achievement: a modern drawing board on which she can draw her designs by hand and then immediately send them to the tablet for further processing and colouring. "It's amazing, isn't it? I think it's totally great."
Marion lives for her profession. The tremendous enthusiasm with which she goes about her work in her studio can be felt in almost every sentence. At the large cutting table in the workshop, with piles of fabric and seemingly disorganised patterns and designs lying around, she remembers her beginnings. During her studies, she was given the opportunity to sell her collection at ELA selected ("an international luminary") in Düsseldorf.
"I almost earned more money back then than I do now," she says and has to laugh herself. Suddenly, she remembers the story of a customer she met in a shoe shop back then who wanted the dress Strehlow was wearing. "But it only happened that one time," she says today, amused by her panic at the time. "I didn't know what to say." So she simply quoted a price (which was quite high for her at the time) - and the customer paid. The lady has remained loyal to Strehlow to this day. Just like most of the customers who come to one of her fashion shows or visit her at the ladies' salon, which takes place "at regular intervals" in her studio. "It's a bit like a birthday party," Marion enthuses. And it's not hard to imagine how a nice group of people get chatting here in her cosy "living room kitchen" between the clothes racks and sewing machines, a bottle or two of champagne is opened and the small hallway is quickly converted into a changing room.
One person who is always there when Marion Strehlow presents her fashion not in the studio but at public appearances, such as recently at the Fashion Düsseldorf platform as part of the TNRWDI_ CATWALK, is her best friend. The handsome hairdresser Marc Booten then models for her, "because male models aren't usually booked for the shows," regrets the designer, whose collection largely includes unisex pieces. Such as the high-cut, black and brown trousers with the double waistband, which are currently Marion's absolute favourite. But overalls, dresses with playful ruffles and blouses with innovative cutting techniques and dark, earthy colours are also part of the strehlow label, which the eponym herself sets the highest standards for. All the pieces in her collection must not only be wearable, but must also be able to be worn often and for a long time. And that is why no trousers, blouse, coat or bag leaves the studio in Oberbilk unless the designer has already worn her design herself. But how does a design come about? "It usually happens very quickly at the beginning," says Marion, pointing to her drawings once again. Patterns then have to be worked out and fabrics cut before the trained seamstress finally sits down at the sewing machine and is happy to let people look over her shoulder. "Behind the scene", in other words.
Tourismus NRW e.V., Ralph Sondermann, Marion Strehlow mit Freund, Düsseldorf Tourismus NRW e.V., Ralph Sondermann, Maßbänder in Atelier, Düsseldorf Tourismus NRW e.V., Ralph Sondermann, Näharbeiten an Produktmarke Strehlow, Düsseldorf Tourismus NRW e.V., Ralph Sondermann, Marion Strehlow mit Kleidungsstücken an Kleiderstange, Düsseldorf
New and old homeThree questions for Marion Strehlow
Marion, you have 48 hours of free time. What would you definitely do with this time in NRW?
Marion: "Then I would definitely go back to my home in the Lower Rhine region. I grew up in Elmpt, just before the Dutch border in the district of Viersen. I would go on a trip to the Elfenmeer and the Venekotensee. The heathland there is simply beautiful. I didn't appreciate it as a child, but now I do. If I still had time, I'd like to finally visit the Zollverein Coal Mine Industrial Complex in Essen. Unfortunately, I've never been there."
Which place in NRW have you recently rediscovered for yourself?
Marion "One city that I keep rediscovering is actually Wuppertal. I'm often here to buy fabrics and I'm always impressed by the Bergisch region. However, I also think Essen is pretty cool, and I always meet interesting and good people who make great things at Dortmunder U."
Your personal favourite place in NRW.
Marion: "Definitely Düsseldorf. It's my favourite place to be. One of my favourite places in the city is definitely the Volksgarten."