When you enter a brewery, you are also entering another world. Origin and hierarchies are irrelevant, there is no "you", only "you" and it is easy to meet new people. Not only is beer brewed here in some cases for many generations but sociable groups get together, sometimes forming real friendships. Old or young, regulars or newcomers, brash or reserved: a wide variety of people come together around the taps in North Rhine-Westphalia. The beers they drink there are also extremely diverse: North Rhine-Westphalia is not only the most populous federal state in Germany, but also the one with the most types of beer. The classics are Kölsch, Altbier and Pilsner.
Kölsch:More than a beer
In Cologne, Kölsch is more than just a beer - the light-coloured, top-fermented brew is as much a part of the city's identity as Cologne Cathedral. The history of the local beer is also almost as old as that of the cathedral: records of Kölsch brewing date back to the 13th century. Today, there are over 25 different brands: from Früh, Päffgen and Sion to Reissdorf and Gilden. Some of them come from large breweries, others are still brewed in traditional home breweries and served in associated pubs.
One example is the brewery Zur Malzmühle, which serves Mühlenkölsch, a beer that even the American president has enjoyed. Timo Eckstein brings the freshly tapped beer to the table in the typical Kölsch sticks. As a Köbes, he belongs to a special species of waiter and contributes to the brewery experience with his manner - sometimes cheeky and harsh, sometimes monosyllabic and dry, then again cordial and cheerful. Depending on the other person, he can cause amazement or laughter. "As a Köbes, you can be brash, but never impertinent," he says. Because "every table is a stage". People flirt and flirt, tease and laugh.
Altbier tour:With home visits in Düsseldorf's historic city centre
Altbier flows mainly from the taps in Düsseldorf and the surrounding area. The oldest Altbier brewery in the world has been producing the hoppy drink on the Lower Rhine since 1266 and the small private brewery Bolten in Korschenbroich is still serving the traditional Ur-Alt in the same place. Incidentally, the name of the palatable, dark beer does not indicate that it is older or has been brewed for longer. "Altus" comes from Latin, meaning "high" and refers to the rising yeast of this top-fermented beer.
The (world's) best-known place for an Altbier tour is Düsseldorf's Old Town. At the "longest bar in the world", five house breweries alone - Schumacher, Uerige, Kürzer, Füchsschen and Schlüssel - invite you to get to know the drinking culture at close quarters. In total, there are around 260 pubs, restaurants and bars spread over half a square kilometre, so there is something to suit every hunger or thirst. But be careful: if you don't order a beer in the brewery but something else, such as mineral water, you should be prepared for the Köbes' saying. "Are we hee em Schwemmbadd or what?" Or: "Do you want to wash yourself? I'll bring the soap and towel right over!" When ordering a beer, on the other hand, no words are usually spoken: When the glass is empty or as good as empty, the Köbes brings a new one without being asked. But at some point, even the most beer-fuelled evening is over, and then a beer mat is simply placed on the empty glass - and the Köbes knows all about it. This sign language applies in Düsseldorf as well as in Cologne.
Pilsner and Dortmunder Export:A story with a lot of emotion
While Kölsch and Altbier tend to be regional specialities, Pilsner is known all over the world - and several world-class Pilsner breweries are based in NRW, including Krombacher, Warsteiner, Veltins and König Pilsener. Almost everywhere in the state, visitors can enjoy a genuine Pilsen-style beer brewed in accordance with the German Purity Law - only in the traditional breweries in Cologne and Düsseldorf should you stick to Kölsch or Alt if you don't want to earn a disparaging look from the Köbes.
Pilsner has a long tradition in the Ruhr region. It has been brewed at the private brewery Moritz Fiege in Bochum since 1926, and the family brewing history itself goes back another 200 years. Time also plays a role in the brewing process itself: careful brewing and slow maturation are part of the philosophy of the "Slow Brewing certified" brewery.
The people of Dortmund love their barley juice and are proud of their brewing tradition, which dates back to the 13th century and reached peak performance in the 19th and 20th centuries. Dortmund Export, a special type of beer, once even made the city world famous and for a long time was Europe's number one beer metropolis in terms of sales. This history is vividly told in the brewery museum, including filling and bottle-washing machines from the 1950s and a counter with a petrol pump from the 1920s. The "Dortmunder U", the listed former fermentation and storage tower of the Union brewery, bears witness to this marriage from afar. Today it is a new type of cultural centre for art, research, cultural education and creativity. A golden U still shines at the top of the roof, which has long since become a symbol of the city. Authentic beer can be enjoyed in one of Dortmund's original pubs, for example at the Alter Markt. There, thirsty beer lovers can enjoy a cool Helles either in the traditional taproom or in the beer garden. Beer in the Ruhr region is generally drunk in the open air and also standing up: locals and visitors alike like to take a break at the kiosk, which can be found on every corner here, to chat and drink beer. This kiosk culture is even regularly celebrated: On Trinkhalle Day, participating kiosks throughout the region offer a free cultural programme as well as a mixed bag and beer.
Well then:Cheers!
Many cities and regions in North Rhine-Westphalia have their very own beers and breweries, most of which are only known regionally but also deliver outstanding quality. Whether small or large, Alt, Kölsch or Pils: in many places in NRW, guests can not only drink their beer in a cosy atmosphere and get to know the state and its people up close, but also learn exciting stories about the delicious barley juice or practise the art of brewing themselves. In Düsseldorf, for example, a guided Altbier safari takes you through the breweries of Düsseldorf's old town, in Cologne a Kölsch tour serves hearty brewery dishes along with the beer and the large breweries also offer their own guided tours, including tastings of course.
Of course, you can also sample the regional specialities on your own - and you'll find out: Brewed beer tastes even better in a convivial atmosphere at the brewery table or pub bar than at home alone.
Whether it's Pilsner, Alt or Kölsch, a wide variety of people come together around the taps in North Rhine-Westphalia, chat and get to know each other. The beer experience is only complete with company. Cheers then!
