City walking in DortmundFootball and façade art

The sun overslept on this day. The weather forecast had promised seven hours of sunshine. But when we arrive at Dortmund Central Station on this cold winter's day, it is still hidden under a thick blanket of cloud. We also take it easy - and make our way to our first destination not on foot, but by underground. We start our walk through the Kreuzviertel neighbourhood at Möllerbrücke, a popular place to hang out in summer and just a stop in winter. Bay windows, ornate balconies, ornate façades in soft blue, grey or yellow: pretty old buildings to the right and left make the district a worthwhile destination even on a grey winter morning. However, we are particularly drawn to the breakfast options in the cafés, so we stop off at Oma Rosa. The delicious-looking tartlets on the counter are eye-catching and whet the appetite. But we're in the mood for something savoury and order coffee, tea and a hearty cheese breakfast including a fig and mustard dip, vegetable sticks and tomato and mozzarella, topped off with a large portion of paprika and feta scrambled eggs. "Are you all right?" or "Can I get you anything else?" we are asked again and again. And yes, we would like some more bread - and we get it immediately and at no extra charge.

Full to the brim, warmed up and happy, we move on after our breakfast break. Our impression: Kreuzviertel is not only a great place to eat and drink (in the warmer seasons, 116einhalb, which is in hibernation, even has a self-service beer tap that guarantees a supply of beer when the kiosk is closed), but also a great and sustainable place to shop. We found what we were looking for in the very first shop selling vintage and second-hand fashion. We continue our urban hike with considerably more luggage. It's a good thing that with urban hiking we don't necessarily have to walk all the way, but can always take a spontaneous ride. We find a connection, hop on the underground and just a few stops later we're walking through Dortmund's industrial heritage far outside the city centre.

By now, the sun has woken up and is shining brightly against the blue sky. From the bus stop, we can already see the rust-red pipes, chimneys and scaffolding of the former blast furnace works. We would have loved to take a blast furnace tour via the Skywalk, but we are there at the wrong time - the guided tours are cancelled in winter. We head past the large halls, where the immersive art spectacle "Phoenix de Lumières" is another attraction, towards our next destination: The Bergmann Brewery. The historic brand is being revitalised here with classic beers and special brews. Some varieties alternate seasonally, others flow permanently from the tap, including the Adambier. On this day, the master brewer has obviously already finished his work, as we can see through a pane of glass that he is already busy cleaning. We go next door to the standing beer hall, where other beer fans already have more or less full glasses in front of them, and treat ourselves to a sample. There's plenty to choose from, but we're sensible - and opt for a glass of the non-alcoholic version, which tastes very good.

We could walk back to the city centre with a long stroll through Westfalenpark, which would be our first choice in the summer months. On this winter's day, however, we just take a short walk over to the nearby railway station in the Hörde district - and hop back on a train there in comfort.

From the main railway station, we set off on an expedition through the surrounding Union Quarter. But we don't really get very far at first, as football attracts our attention. Right opposite the station, the German Football Museum and a BVB fan shop make it clear just how much this city has to offer. Here, as elsewhere in NRW, football is not just a sport, but love, passion and a way of life.

The golden letter of the Dortmund U shines high above. The building, which is now a centre for art and creativity, has become a landmark not only for this district but for the whole of Dortmund with its video installations visible from afar. It also has a lot to offer inside with various exhibitions and events. However, we are focussing on the outdoor art in the streets around it. Colourful murals in Rheinische Straße and Adlerstraße make sure that we stop again and again and press the shutter release with our ice-cold fingers. So much action makes us hungry and so we head for our last stop: The "Gourmet Stäbchen" snack bar, which, according to our research, combines chips with football flair. And that's right: even from a distance, we can see yellow and black pictures on the façade. This decorative feature, as well as its location on the footpath from the station to the stadium, make it a popular stop for football fans. Inside, there are not only really tasty fries with currywurst, but also other BVB memorabilia, a cash register that plays BVB songs as soon as it is opened and photos of Jürgen Klopp, who obviously also enjoyed eating here during his time as a coach.

What do we take away from this city walk through Dortmund? In addition to cool second-hand clothes and a BVB cup that changes colour as soon as it is filled with hot drinks, above all many new impressions - and the realisation that we will be back again in the summer.